In partnership with Gucci, the Victoria and Albert Museum presents the Fashioning Masculinities exhibition. With the aim of celebrating the growing era of man’s fashion diversity, its beginnings and how far it has come. This exhibition is set to showcase the pioneers of men’s fashion, as well as explore how designers, tailors, artists and their clients have consumed and performed fashion throughout the years.
As we approach the exhibit’s starting point we spot Gucci’s Alessandro Michele’s statement, talking about modernizing and redefining the established historical idea of masculinity and celebrating man’s freedom without social constraints and stereotypes. An excerpt from the statement released to coincide with the Fall/Winter 2020 collection:
“It seems necessary to suggest a desertion, away from patriarchal plans and uniforms. Deconstructing the idea of masculinity as it has been historically established. Opening a cage. Throwing a chant.”
The first section of the exhibit contains the “Undressed”. Portraying masculinity as we had always historically known it. 1996 Jean-Paul Gaultier troupe l’oeil free god torso blazer, among other pieces, such as sculptures and manuscripts. The sculpture of the god Apollo as an archer, rediscovered in the late 1400s, was praised by the 18th-century art historian Johann Joachim Winckelman as the “highest ideal of art”. The divine body aroused sensual as well as intelectual responses. Plaster casts like this were exhibited in London, and the Apollo became the model silhouette for the 19th century dandies and their tailors.
Fashioning Masculinities: The Art of Menswear exhibition, “Undressed” section at the V&A Museum in South Kensington, London
Secondly, the “Overdressed” section was nothing less, we spotted a number of extravagant embroidered suits and capes, such as designer Randi Rahm’s floral embellished ensemble with a shocking pink lining. Worn by Billy Porter in the 2019 Golden Globes. From the highlights, Alessandro Michele for Gucci Pre-Fall 2019 Indigo velvet ensemble worn by Harry Styles, courtesy of Gucci’s Historical Archive. Next to it, Oswald Boateng’s 1996s wool and polyester ensemble.
Blue and purple were regal colors, historically, and Indigo dye was an expensive commodity. Purple’s imperial connection dates from Ancient Rome. Contemporary designers Michele and Boateng have reappropriated peacock-brights for powerful formal wear. Michele recalls the sumptuous palette, textures and cuts of the 1970s, while Savile Row designer Boateng’s commitment to his signature purple is partially inspired by his Ghanaian heritage.
Originally, flamboyant dressing has been a way for men in Europe to display power and wealth, and after a period of relative restraint in the 19th and early 20th century, menswear exuberant dressing regained popularity. Designers are now reclaiming the power of bright colors and patterns to express a broader spectrum of identities.
Walking past we encounter Martine Rose’s Autumn/Winter 2020 ensemble, a blend of different cultural influences, from street styles to family memories. Referencing her Jamaican roots, Rose shows her own heritage and the masculinities that are part of it.
Martine Rose, Autumn/Winter 2020
“What I do is tell a story about masculinity. All different versions — including awkward and weird.” -Martine Rose
“Redress”, the exhibit’s last block. Tailored, black and conservative 19th century suits. Wool coats and classic trousers, silk hats, tops and scarfs.
We found a very interesting overview of the way menswear was perceived and portrayed back in the day.
Finalizing with the stunning Harry Styles December 2020 Vogue Dress, a ruffled gown covered in black valenciennes, lace and ribbons, by Gucci’s Alessandro Michele next to Billy Porter’s Christian Siriano, black, sharply tailored tuxedo jacket overtopped with a full-skirted strapless velvet gown, worn at the 2019’s Oscars red carpet.
To me this was an exceedingly interesting and entertaining showcase of menswear and its widespread of variety throughout the years. The way new movements, technologies and ideologies are affecting, inspiring and ultimately changing the art industry as we have always known it.
Fashion today is changing even faster than it did in the previous years. We are, in fact, right in the middle of a fast-paced revolution happening around the fashion industry, and mostly around the world, so it is, in moments like these where and when we are able to put into perspective the things that are currently taking place.
Fashion is political, and the art you choose to make is your stance. And this exhibition was nothing less than that.
It is a privilege and also a big responsibility acknowledging the influence that these changes around the world hold and the impact they have in our daily lives. But this can also be a key opportunity to go deeper into ourselves and reflect about where we stand, what we think and ultimately, which direction we are planning on taking.